Modern Heirloom Fine Jewelry

Jewelry design and Copyright

2012-01-15T06:30:00.000-08:00

I read an article in JCK which got me thinking...as I felt inspired to comment there I wanted to share my response with you all here as well.The article discussed how new technology is making it easier and easier to copy a design and reproduce it....here are a few of my thoughts on the challenge this presents us designers...;-)
Of course, I agree that there is no replacing a good finish and technique but too often I am afraid the value of the earliest moments of conception can be dramatically overlooked. The price tag wins out with the majority of people and they don't even think of a knock off as "copyright" infringement ... This was proven to me recently at our custom jewelry shop ...I was speaking with a writer who had visited and I noticed the ring she was wearing as the design was recognizable. I asked if she got it from the jeweler I knew it from. She said she took their ad to a jeweler in Ny and had the design copied...
Later in her visit, I was giving her demonstrations on technique.Upon demonstrating the setting of a bezel... She commented my quality was better and that she should have brought the image to me to copy . I politely replied..." I would have refused". She was confused by this so I further explained that it would be copyright infringement and that our biggest concern is that happening to us. Therefore I refuse to copy any image brought in... I will be inspired by it but not copy it. You would think a writer working in the world of plagiarism would get this more than most... Unfortunately it is a small handful of people who even understand that creative minds and hands craft jewelry, not machines. It isn't thought of for the art form rather as an object for adornment . So it becomes each of our charge to respect each others property and educate the consumer. As for these giant companies knocking off all the truly great designers... Well at least we can fall back on unique and well crafted designs to keep us small custom shops going . That combined with a true passion for designing and creating will hopefully generate an appreciation from the consumer for the magic that happens on the Jewelers bench ,beginning with the design and ending with their treasure.
So in conclusion I present challenges... To the wearer look at the life of the jewelry you buy... great design and quality come from someones hands whether it is a factory in china knocking off designs or the custom jeweler down the street. To the makers...it's up to you to refuse to copy another design . In this economy lost sales are challenging but unique design is to be treasured . Afterall technology is a great blessing to each of us when used properly . Have an inspired day!

You can read JCK's article here.

Thoughts on Creative Life and "Worry" ....

2011-10-01T01:49:00.000-07:00

A good friend and talented artist brought up a challenge tonight she and I obviously share... The challenge of worry. I can absolutely relate. Good or bad... I worry. I'm not sure why but it seems the older I have become , the more this has begun to be a constant part of my life. Bizarrely, It seems that the more successful we have become, the more I worry. This strange place I am in now (having my business shut down by the storm) has been an odd form of momentary relief. I think maybe because for once in a long time, I had no choice. I have been sent to a place of merely reacting . I didn't have the typical ability to think and choose this moment. It was out of my hands and in the beginning that totally FREAKED me out. When we were younger in our Oregon studio days, we just went with the flow. I never lost sleep over life and decisions. I seem to be more like that with this storm and our recovery from it at least during my strongest moments. I am appreciating little moments of time and the gift of change. However, I notice as we regain our footing the worry is already creeping back in. Human's are resilient and we see this most through truly challenging moments. The "comfort zone" is a whole other challenge to be met. Is it that we have further to fall, more to lose, and bigger decisions to make that cause us to worry more as we better establish our lives and world? This I am not sure of. I do know however strange it sounds that I have enjoyed the relief of this tragic moment. The forced stop and the opportunity to reevaluate. I am learning to again react from my gut rather than my head. I have discovered that it is the pure belief that universally we ARE being taken care of that carries me. It is the same blind faith that carried me in the earliest days of creating in my studio. I am striving to trust that it will all work out and reconnecting with my "younger" self. Now, may I just stay in that carefree place as I rebuild my world. After all, the greatest success will be when we can enjoy the gift of our creative lives without the shadow of concern.

This is a little glimpse of our shop before and after the Hurricane Irene ...

Phoenix Rising....

2011-09-28T19:23:00.000-07:00

Exactly one month has past since the day I pulled out of town on an evacuation route to avoid the path of Hurricane Irene. Completely for the amusement of a "hurrication" as I had dubbed the trip to Asheboro , NC. I have grown up in the path of many a storm and have never untill now been touched by one truly.
The phoenix is a mythical bird with a colorful plumage and a tail of gold and scarlet. Near the end of it's life it builds itself a nest of twigs that then ignites; both nest and bird burn fiercely and are reduced to ashes, from which a new, young phoenix or phoenix egg arises, reborn anew to live again.... Which is precisely what we plan to do.
This month has been a surreal path. From an adventure to escape a storm I never thought would hurt, to the reality of our studio and gallery's momentary destruction a day later.
I was reminded of the days we bagan in this little old farmhouse as I walked into our flooded gallery. Fourteen years of renovating and building our world and one day of water had washed so much away in the physical since.
As we disassembled our soggy world, I was faced with an inner struggle. In the blink of an eye everything had changed. Tragedy finds each of us eventually in life. I think I knew this all to well as I faced the most tragic of events as a child upon losing my sister to drowning. In recent years, I have felt this fear growing within me... when will it be my turn. When will the universe take control and rip that carpet from underneath my comfortable feet.
So here I am ... in the wake of this storm literally.
Comforted in the safety of my loved ones and the embrace of my home. My great loss ... the momentary interruption of the business we have poured our hearts into for the past 14 years or at least the building which housed it.
The first thought as I wiped the tears, how will we ever get through this... how will we survive?
The second thought... like a phoenix we will rise and be reborn.This moment is life's oppurtunity to evolve into a greater and stronger form of ourselves.I began with my first jewelry creation since the storm which brings me strength now as I wear it ...Phoenix rising from the water engraved in silver and set with 18k and a diamond accent. Only the beginning of more great things to come including my latest series of jewelry inspired by this piece.
I look forward to showing each of you the rebuilding of our creative world....Kathryn Holton Stewart :-)

Engraving Inspired

2011-01-17T18:25:00.000-08:00

Latest Inspired Design

Do you know what is so truly fascinating about our internet driven world? The fact that a person like myself can start my Sunday chatting with masterful artists around the world via video and watch them work.
Our meeting ground....Steve Lindsey's Engraving Forum. It is an excellent forum of the world's engraving talent and an excellent place for a budding engraver like myself to pick up tips and tricks from the world's best.
I signed up for an observation opportunity observe the engraving of a side plate by Roland Baptiste Engraveur.

This is the Side plate I am observing Roland Baptiste engraving

Literally,I get to look at Roland's graver block as he engraves. Observation and practise are after all two of the most important things when mastering engraving.
As I observed his work , I chatted with another engraver/jeweler in Belgium and an engraver in London. To be able to connect with artists in my field all over the world is a rare oppurtunity and definately a blessing to this new age. So, as I made my cinnamon rolls and drank my coffee, I watched his engraving unfold.
How inspiring!
After breakfast with the engraver's of the world.... full on inspiration I headed to my graver ball. From observation to inspiration and to complete the circle....Practice.
I decided to spend the rest of the day engraving. Practicing what I had seen. I started working on a flat Silver Disk. The first of a new series of creations in which I start with an Engraving Practise plate and end with a finished piece of jewelry.Please enjoy as the Scroll and design of this piece unfolds.

Layout and cut outlines

Shade cut , recess background,
dap circle and add Gold edge

Final stage is creating the jewelry from my engraving
I decide to add a Gold Detailed Bail with a
Tori Gate inspired Design

Finally, I Polish the Design to add the Final Touch.

Final Design which is crafted in
Sterling Silver and 14 K Yellow Gold
by Kathryn Stewart

Our Studio....

2011-01-15T09:23:00.000-08:00

For the past couple of days, we have paused the creating for a moment to enter into an amazing phase of reorganizing our studio. As I mentioned a few posts back , it is crazy how many bits and pieces that collect in a goldsmithing shop after thirteen years of making things there. Time for a deep clean. I didn't want this pause in creating to pause my blog writing so I will give you a tour of our newly organized studio and introduce you to some of our favorite tools. Enjoy the tour!

This is our Studio assistant
,Jimmie Lee and he is siked
on his newly
organized desk ...Now he is
ready for the challenges we will
be throwing his way.....
"One more thing"as I like to say.

Although I prefer Hand Engraving
occasionally the job and budget
call for a Machine. That
is when we turn to our
Signature Engraver...

My Favorite Bench because my
grandfather sat at it for 50 years,
he was a watchmaker and
I love the feeling of this bench.

This is our CAD Design
Center where we use Matrix and my
awesomely talented husband,
Ben Stewart

Our Revo B CAM Machine
We are able to create a
3D Representation of the pieces
We design. Very handy for
our Custom Design Work.

This is our forging area..
I am planning to redress
our big anvil finally...
I have had it since 1992,
Got it at a yard sale for $25....Score:)

This is our
Bonny Doon Press which
we need to use more often,
I think I will do a blog project
withit soon to get myself to
better explore the possibilities.:)

Forging, Soldering , and "Sfen"our
Dursten Rolling Mill circa
1995.Sfen was our
first big tool after we left school.
Lots of tapers have been made
since then thanks to Sfen...:)

And this is me,
Kathryn Holton Stewart
and my oh so stylish
eyeware, my Obrira Binoculars.
They give me the superpower
of microscopic vision...very handy.

and this is my bench,
designed and crafted by
Rob Durham.
There is style and strength in the
wood work and lots of drawers.

You can see some of my favorite

tools, my GRS Graverball,

Acrobat microscope stand,

Lindsey Engraver, and
my RinGenie

"There are some people who live in a dream world, and there are some who face reality; and then there are those who turn one into the other."
---Douglas Everett

And this is what Our studio is , a dream reality that inspires me to create everday....

Have an inspired day!

Stream of Conscious

2011-01-13T06:22:00.000-08:00

Sketching helps inspire the mind

Today as I approached the table of many parts,I was beckoned by these lovely little sterling leaf shapes and some silver wire which had been partially forged. They were asking for completion and I was in the mood for a stream of conscious creative session. One of those days where I throw the rigidity of predestined design rules out the window and rely on technique and instinct.

Once I have selected my pieces, I begin with sketching to get the creative juices flowing. My intention is not to make these sketches (at least not today) but

forging the silver to evolve it's shape

to get my mind working in a general direction to take my pendants in today. Keep in mind my goal...no particular design.

Polishing and cleaning

Feeling inspired, I begin to work.This is the Stream of Conscious part...much like the writing assignment we all know from grade school. My goal is just keep moving and don't over think it . Let the pieces become something as I loosely guide them through the techniques...

Soldering for assembly

Setting the Gemstones of my choice

Forging, filing , polishing, soldering,and setting... my pieces begin to evolve into beautifully sculptural little pendants. At first I thought more leaf inspired but as I am working on them they start to make me think of different things. One becomes an undersea shell and the creature that would hide inside is creeping out while no one is looking. Another is a seed pod. That is the fun of this exercise. During this inspired challenge my mind gets to rest. It's like daydreaming while being productive.My mind wanders as my hands travel the paths they have a million times before. At the end of the day, I set my stones and am pleased to introduce 6 totally unexpected designs to you .

I hope you enjoy this post and in turn find what inspires you today!

Pulling it out from under the Mattress...so to speak.

2011-01-12T07:07:00.000-08:00

I headed to the table yesterday and was greeted by 2 ring blanks screaming to be completed. After all, we originally casted them in 2002. Unbelievable right? Especially considering they were in 14K yellow Gold. You would have thought we'd have used them by now. The good news is...when we originally cast them the gold market was $310 . So we tucked them under our mattress so to speak and they have since quadrupled their value before I even begin. The even better news......I have improved my skills in engraving so much I can really make something of them now.The perfect Blank canvas ready to be primed and painted

For more of the steps involed hit the play button below....

Step one is to clean the blanks.When I found them, they were so old they hardly look like gold and they actually are from the days when we hand carved every wax. So I sand and polish my blanks to a nice clean surface.I find no matter the finish you want in the end...a perfect polish is the best ground to stand on .

I decide as I am polishing that one is calling for a classic wheatleaf design and three bead set diamonds on top.

Step two is to focus in on the wheatleaf. I love this patterns.The fascinating part of engraving is that the right pattern of the right cuts can create these natural leaf shapes. press play to enjoy the steps here...

Step three is to bead set the diamonds. Challenge... I always lean on my talented husband here. He is our masterful stonesetter but as busy as it gets around here It's time I learn so this will be my first bead set.

1: Mark and drill pilot hole

2: Open hole with a bud bur to fit diamond

3: Create seat with setting bur

4: Cut Beads with Round graver and anglet

5:Push Beads over with Round Graver, clean up seat to fit

6: Bead with beading tool

7: Bright cut and your done

For more of the steps involed please hit the play button

Today is a good day...I learned something completely new! Now to finish, I engrave the sides with a cool little beaded and leaf pattern to change it up a bit. I hope you enjoyed this project as much as I enjoyed creating i.I definately look forward to showing you where I take ring blank #2.OneHint....It's definately gonna have some bead sets in the design....

Thanks for enjoying this post!

Kathryn Holton Stewart

I Did it!!!! That was so very satisfying, I always want to set diamonds
into my patterns.....now I can!

Another Year Begins...

2011-01-09T20:56:00.000-08:00

Another year ends and a new one begins. It's time to reflect on the accomplishments of 2010 and look to the goals of 2011. I first began blogging with the goal to inspire and teach through which I would inevitably learn. The

two go hand in hand after all and it was an honorable goal. Then the day to day demands of our

custom jewelry shop take control of our time. This blog sits collecting dust as do many of the pieces we begin in the moments between deadlines and design challenges presented us throughout the year.

So to begin this year, I am wiping off the dust and collecting the pieces. I am transforming this blog into a bird's eye view into the goldsmithing shop at our Gallery....

Si lver Bonsai Gallery.

Rather than try to fit this blog into the spare moments of our daily shop demands, I will be highlighting them for you project by project. In turn I still plan to achieve my goal... to inspire and teach through which I will inevitably learn.

Week 1...We began cleaning and clearing the drawers of all the pieces of partially formed and forged silver and gold which have collected from 13 years crafting jewelry at our shop.

The tables filled quickly as I organized them into groups and the second challenge of the year became obvious.

Go to the table, find a piece, and create a piece of jewelry out of it.

And so it begins...

I chose my first group of pieces of 8 tapers, dapped circles, and some square wire.

My inspiration came and it was to create one of our favorite design series from our past. Predating the Silver Bonsai, I'm pulling this design out of the vault so to speak.

Inspired by the gates of japan. we have often been asked what this design series represents.

My answer....Harmony.

Art Nouveau Inspired Necklace

2010-04-24T18:40:00.000-07:00

18K Palladium White Gold , 14K Yellow Gold, Chalcedony , Diamond, And Akoya pearls. Designed by Kathryn Stewart , Crafted by Ben and Kathryn Stewart

Our to do list of jewelry making projects has kept us logged into the jewelers bench and I have been unable to write a new article. To fill the gap I will be posting the steps of some of our favorite creations .

This Georges Fouquet inspired Necklace is crafted 18K palladium White Gold, 14K Yellow Gold. Set with Chalcedony, Diamonds and accented by akoya pearls.

Hand carved and sculpted detail accents the 20+ carat chalcedony centerpiece. Pave' diamonds create a hallow of sparkle aroung the stone.

Discovering Hand Engraving

2010-02-06T20:21:00.000-08:00

pictured below:Illustration by Kathryn Holton Stewart

www.silverbonsai.com

I first discovered the beauty of hand engraving 5 years ago when I came across a class at

Blaine Lewis' New Approach School for Jeweler's . New Approach was introduced to me when Ben, my husband,studied Advanced Stone Setting under Blaine's instruction . The techniques offered and the philosophy of the school was so impressive we were hooked. When I spied a course on Hand Engraving I was completely intrigued and had to check it out.

Drawing has been a part of my art since I was 8 . To bring illustration to my metalwork was an exciting concept. I signed up immediately and was fortunate to study under Jason Marchiafava.

Jason is a third generation Artist and Craftsman by trade.

He began his training metalsmithing and stone setting at a very young age under the supervision of Jeweler Tina May Shiele,the head jeweler of his father

and grandfathers shop. By the time Jason graduated High School his skilles in the jewelry trade had matured. .At 19, hungry for more advanced skills in stonesetting and other aspects of the jewelry trade he started researching classes and began networking with other artisans. Jason began to discover the "Artists'" view of metals.....ejoy Jason's full bio here

Jason's full Biography. pictured above: Ornamental Scrollwork and gold inlay by Jason Marchiafava

In class, Jason introduced us over the course of a 5 day intensive to the way of ornamental hand engraving. I remember the introduction well as Jason broke ornamental patterns down into basic cuts .

Cat claws and S cuts, simple enough right? That is until you first try.

Day One...We just repeated the same cuts over and over. It was fascinating to hear as the class went from slipping right and left to finding the touch of the graver. Ping... Ping...Ping... throughout the room.

It was then that I knew the graver would become a key component in our work.

As I find the time to practice and incorporate engraving into my work I find myself wanting to learn more about this craft. The Engraving community of the modern world I have discovered is intensely impressive in talent and skill amongst a large handful of artists A visit to www.handengravingfor um.com will give one a humbling glimpse of the amazing talent the engraving community is infused with. This encourages me to dig deeper and learn more about this art.

My first focus will be around scrollwork, it is my favorite engraving subject.

Check out my archived blog,

Artful Scrolls .

I will spend the coming months focused on the use of the graver in jewelry making, from ornamental patterning to functional stone setting techniques.So I hope you will look forward to my next blog subject:

The Anatomy of the Scroll

For now enjoy this little glimpse of my beginning practice toward the goal of mastering the scroll.

pictures right:Pen and ink by Kathryn Stewart

Until next time dream big, work hard, and Be inspired!

Kathryn Holton Stewart

Zen and The Art of Piercing

2010-01-31T19:52:00.000-08:00

Art Nouveau design and the metalwork of the early 1900s has fascinated me since the earliest days of my

career. Observing the detail and intricacy of the jewelry crafted by artists such as Rene Lalique and Georges Fouquet ,I'm amazed at what they were able to accomplish at that time. Contemplating this, I found myself inspired to

focus on breaking down the techniques of their creations and mastering each individually .

The first technique to practise was something I had stopped using enough in my own work, The art of my jeweler's saw. I spent the first week of my challenge focused on one of the first skills I was introduced to at SCAD.

Project one in " Intro to Jewelry" in 1993 which taught us about using our jeweler's saw to pierce out a design. I still remember what I pierced, two little gecko lizards

in a mirrored design. I realized it was time to become reaquainted with my saw and the amazing detail that very tool brought to many of the pieces I love

so much.

As I began to prepare my challenge inspired by Micheal David Sturlin and a recent workshop he taught, Zen and the Art of the Jeweler's Saw, I decided a knotwork would be my subject.

Step #1 Design and Layout

As I began I realized the layout and transfer is really the most important step. The Skeleton or Backbone so to speak and often my personal weakness.

I typically rush this stage and regret it later. There are a few great methods for transferring your design.

Photocopy a nd Laser Printer Transfer Method, Pencil and Ink transfers, and more are techniques used and are described in depth at this link . Once I transferred my design I decided to take it a step further, leading us to our next stage.

Step #2 Engrave the layout

Since discovering engraving , I seem to find a new use for my gravers each day. On this day sure enough, my 120 degree Graver became step 2 . Follow this link for advice on sharpening various gravers. This step really adds to the precision of your design. Depending on the intricacy of the design it can help in the accuracy of your cut when you begin sawing. The added benefit is the bright cut keyline left behind as a pleasant by product.

Step #3 Drilling

Each negative space you wish to have begins with a scribe point and then a drilled hole. Drill bit size depends on the size of the detail and the sheet. In this case I was working with 20 guage sheet and the spaces were quite small. I chose a #65 drill bit.

Step #4 Piercing with a jeweler's saw

The final step is to Pierce the details out. As per the suggestion of Micheal David Sturlin I used a 3/0 Blade for the first time, which I loved. It was tight

enough to get all of the detail and yet had a great sturdiness to it. I was even able to use it like a file to help clean up the interior of my cuts.

This is where the Zen part comes in . As I worked, I realized how much my cut related to my posture and my breathing. By relaxing into it and imagining my blade as the needle of a sewing machine, I settled into fluid strokes upward and downward timed with even breathes in and out . I am proud to say , I only broke one blade on the piece pictured here...

Of course it happened when I let my posture go and lost the flow for a moment.

Lesson learned through this challenge is this is a moment in which slow and steady does win the race. Enjoy and be inspired!

My Road to Master Goldsmith

2010-01-21T01:55:00.000-08:00

The new year is well underway. I have recovered from the madness of being a jeweler during the holidays, enjoyed some r&r, and now it is time to look at what 2010 has in store. I spend my days floating between my jeweler's bench, my design center, our customers. and our gallery. Practicing my craft daily has taught me many things. We are presented challenges which we learn from each day and yet I feel need to focus on improving certain gaps which I realize exist in my mastery of the art of jewelry making.

I am fortunate to craft with a partner, my husband Ben Stewart. His technical abilities and focus at the Bench amaze me daily. Of course I naturally have become all too used to leaning on his skills in my own work. My goal therefore is set...to recognize my technical shortcomings and search out the information and practice challenges necessary to improve my skills and focus.

This blog will be my study arena. A chronicle of challenges, classes, and research I choose to focus on as I follow the road Master Goldsmith. It is intended to enlighten, inspire, and hopefully even educate you in the art of jewelry making and it's rich history. I invite you to join me in observing step by step challenges, exploring the history of my craft, and meeting many of today's masters. This will all lead up to my final goal and the carrot at the end of my stick, Certified Master Bench Jeweler.

Enjoy as you join me in this journey!

Tomorrow's Challenge: "Zen and the Art of Piercing"

inspired by Michael David Sturlin and his Podcast, "Zen and the Art of the Jeweler's Saw"

3D Artists....It's time to flex those 2D muscles... and Vice Versa

2009-01-28T05:05:00.000-08:00

I have noticed a pattern over the last 25 years of creating....yes I started at age 9 and then it was all about drawing disney characters as accurately as possible. It wasn't until I had many jewelry making years under my belt and I returned to drawing on the side that I noticed this pattern . I now try to make it a point to practice it regularly. What am I referring to?

Improving your skill set through practicing another.

After my art school days, I had been sculpting metal regularly. One day I felt inspired to sit down and randomly bust out a drawing. Low and behold, I was better at drawing than I ever had been before, Much better. Strange...I mean, I hadn't drawn in years. How could I have improved? What I found as I drew, was that my line no longer stopped at the visual edge of the object I was drawing. In my mind's eye, it traveled around the object. I could see the hidden areas. Working three dimensionally had taught me to better understand Contour and shape and most importantly dimension. I then found this working in reverse. After a drawing spree, I return to the metal and find the dimension of my piece has an added depth and my line work has more purpose. Sculpting jewelry after all is drawing through space.

It is easy to become trapped in a rut so to speak of one avenue of arts.

When you find your self married to your artistic comfort zone...

I would like to inspire you to shake it up. Break the pattern, Create something outside of that box and see what it brings back to your Norm.You will be surprised. Flex a new area of your create brain than normal and you will find your work grows dimensionally in ways you didn't expect.

Have an inspired day!

Kathryn Holton Stewart

Silver Bonsai Gallery

http://www.silverbonsai.com/

Pictured above: my most recent 2D artistic challenge,

color pencil on toned sanded pastel paper,

Title: "If you let me out, I promise not to do again"

Bridging the gap : Concept & Technique

2009-01-13T16:05:00.000-08:00

As I was exploring my facebook friends status reports this morning, I came across one that really got my brain ticking on a subject that has been in the background of our world since the start of my career.
Why is there a Grand Divide between the Conceptual and the Fine jewelry worlds? Fortunately, there are leaders within our industry working steadily to build a bridge. This conversation was inspired by Cindy Edelstein,Jewelers Resource Bureau, and her upcoming talk on Fine Jewelry in an Arts & Crafts Gallery. Interestingly, the first comment on her status in which Cindy mentioned her talk was a woman claiming it’s just not possible or at least not worth it to show Fine jewelry in such an environment.
The question this raised in my head is…just when did Fine Jewelry stop being “Art”.
Historically, if we look to the early 1900s, we can see jewelry of such extreme artistry how could it be referred to as anything but and yet the creations of that time had every quality that defines “Fine jewelry” today. The makers balanced creative vision with an extreme mastery of techniques. Artists such as Rene' Lalique and Georges Fouquet incorporated many techniques such as hand engraving , fabricating, stone setting, and enameling together to create illustratively and sculptural stunning works of art. Each creation pushed the envelope of design and displayed thorough attention toward wear ability and technique.
It is in our artistic nature to push the envelope. Just as Duchamp signed the toilet, Warhol painted the soup can, and Pollack splattered paint, contemporary jewelry was born. Concepts were pushed in new directions and techniques were broken down in new ways. Statements were being made and of course still are today. The challenge with the push toward concept and away from technique is that the envelope can be pushed only so far before it tears. As contemporary jewelers or instructors within this world, it needs to become our focus to keep technique to the foreground of our work. We should try to make a point of not just asking why, and look closer at how. We should hone our skills and remember that the objects we create, artistic statements aside, are meant to be worn.
I believe, Fine Jewelry does belong in the Art Gallery arena; for it is there that the consumer may better recognize the artistry which lies behind its creation. Through this, jewelry may enter a space in which it is not overlooked and overshadowed by the production world, but rather can be revered simultaneously for its technique and artistry.

Finding your Design Inspiration

2009-01-10T21:37:00.000-08:00

As I have been searching for what to create for the Vision Awards,(Yes I know last minute) , it got me thinking about design inspiration....

In order to train eyes and hands to the paper, we must first train our eye to the world around us, where everyday objects can inspire extraordinary things. I often find myself looking for underlying shapes & observing the textures and colors within them. I learn to appreciate the movement of line.... in, around, and through space. Becoming a visual data collector, this sense of observation harnesses creative inspiration and develops design skills.
Our environment can serve as a constant source of creative and visual inspiration. From the organic line work of a flower to the architectural detailing of a building , we are surrounded by an inspiring array of shape, texture, & color.

In jewelry design, we must also look to the human figure for inspiration. Jewelry by definition is meant to interact with the body. It is a wearable art. The figure is the backdrop on which our designs come to life.
Training our skills in drawing the contours of the body, teaches what lines our jewelry designs must follow. Utilizing the natural flow of line to enhance jewelry’s interaction with the wearer is always an underlying goal.
Finally, look to create balance through the visual play of what is and is not there. A balanced composition is of key importance in design. Keep in mind, balance is not to be confused with symmetry. Some of the most successful designs incorporate what I like to refer to as "Balanced Asymmetry". Just as a scale can balance through the use of different objects, a design can become balanced through the offsetting of elements, as seen in the pendant to the left.

So next time you find your self designing, hopefully these words will become a part of your inspirational bucket. In return, whatever your medium of choice, I would love to hear a favorite place, time, or otherwise you find your greatest inspiration.

Enjoy & Be Inspired!

Jewelry and illustrations by Kathryn Holton Stewart

Contact:

http://www.silverbonsai.com/

http://www.modernheirloom.com/

kat@silverbonsai.com

Artful Scrolls & Engraver Jason Marchiafava

2009-01-08T19:43:00.000-08:00

Scrolls of imaginative and ornamental patterns can be found throughout the hand engraving world. As the process of cutting a scroll unfolds, it is as if you are watching leaves uncurl and vines intertwine. When I began engraving, I was introduced to the concepts behind designing a layout by a very talented engraver, Jason Marchiafava. Therefore it made perfect sense to introduce you all to him now. Thanks again, Jason for supplying this evenings imagery.

Inspired by nature, the curling of an Oak leaf, and the blooming of a flower.... the key to a well engraved scroll begins with layout.
As we draw and paint the scroll,we train our minds to the patterns of line and the cuts in the metal become second nature.
Technique breaks the lusciousness of the scroll into a well defined series of repetitious cuts.

I had the fortune of first observing these techniques through Jason's skillful hands. This is evident through the Scrolls pictured here inlaid with 24K Gold & featuring exhibition grade Banknote engraving.

The shaded depth is created through the reflection and absorption of light. The true beauty of a hand engraved scroll lies in it's ability to dance light through each cut...giving us the impression of motion.

When I began to observe and create ornamental scroll work, it became apparent just how full the world is of these entrancing works of art. From the pattern on a wall to the chair I am sitting in now, these illustratively stunning details seem to creep into my visual world every other minute.

My final thought to leave you with this evening is a suggestion ...

As you wander through your world for the next few days , make a point to observe the scrolls hiding within you surroundings and allow your eyes a moment to enjoy!

Written by Kathryn Holton Stewart

Images & Engraving Samples by Jason Marchiafava

21st Century Jewelry Design, Balancing Modern Technology with Traditional Technique

2009-01-06T17:10:00.000-08:00

Looking to the Masters of the early 1900's and beyond, we are inspired, humbled, and awestruck by the complexity of design, intricacy of detail, and masterful craftsmanship.
We now have the privilege of ushering in this new era of advanced technology with tools such as computer aided design and milling, and laser welding at our fingertips.
We are challenged to balance this technology with traditional hands on techniques in order to better not only ourselves, but our creations.

The Creative process, from concept to completion, strikes a balance within our daily lives.
As studio artists, we strive to continue to explore new ideas, master new techniques, practice old ones, and attack the daily challenges of custom design. Throughout it all, our goal remains to stay true to our artistic vision.
Metalsmithing is a process. One which requires time, patience, and effort. Throughout this process, the creative mind is alive and inspiration can be found. Pulling inspiration from the jewelry master’s of our past, we explore our ideas through virtual design.
When hands must rest, theories can fly. Designs can be realized which before would have remained buried indefinitely with in the Mind’s Eye. We combine this technology of today with age old techniques such as hand engraving to create these modern heirlooms.
Becoming empowered by the freedom of theory, we explore forms and designs from all angles. There is a rhythm which we strike in a metalsmithing studio,
forging, filing, polishing and engraving.
The physicality reigns.
That same rhythm exists in the virtual studio, through which a balance is struck. We stretch our ideas, for they are as fluid as the metal which lies before us daily. We challenge our vision , push our technique, & open our mind’s to new
possibilities.